Bay
Crossings Cuisine
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a closer look |
Chef
Thomas Ricci of Lapis prepares
Pancetta
and Grape Leaf Wrapped Chicken Breast Stuffed with Saged Goat Cheese
To blazes with
journalistic standoffishness: we adore Lapis. Devastatingly gorgeous
waterfront views combine with hip to the tip décor for a hallucinogenic
blend of old waterfront class (cruise ships tie up just outside floor to
ceiling windows, making you feel like you’re in a 30’s movie) and
high-tech high living (folk party here like it really is still 1999 and
there never was a dot-bomb). Simply the coolest place for a drink in San
Francisco these days is the private nook – open to the public — just
off the bar; go there and settle into the armchairs facing the water
with a martini and just try and say you don’t agree. Ask for
ubiquitous Managing Partner Steven Smith – tell him we sent you –
and take in an unrepentant hippie, thriving no less.
Lapis is perhaps the most
exciting pioneer of the new waterfront aesthetic, and we’d enjoy going
there just for the atmosphere. But all the major critics agree that the
food is also to die for. We asked celebrity chef Thomas Ricci to show us
something we could try at home.
Creamy superfine polenta,
sautéed Italian chestnuts, and roasted black mission figs
Serves 4-6
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| Here
is what you need for preparation |
Ingredients
For the Chicken
» 4 each 7 oz. gourmet
skinless chicken breasts (gourmet is a one piece boneless double breast)
» 1 pound pancetta thinly
sliced cross- wise, try to keep in whole rinngs, ask your butcher for
help
» 4 -8 medium to large
brined grape leaves
» 4oz. goat cheese or
chevre
» 1bunch of sage
For the Polenta
» 1 cup superfine polenta
» 1 1/2 cups chicken
stock
» 1 1/2 cups milk or half
and half
» 1 medium sized onion
finely chopped
» 1 bay leaf
For the sauce
» 2 cups of roasted
chicken stock reduction
» 1 pound of black
mission figs
» 1 pound of peeled,
roasted chestnuts
» 2 shallots
salt, pepper
Take the chicken and
season lightly on both sides and place a cigar shaped oz. of the goat
cheese with the finely chopped sage inside. Carefully wrap the breasts
around the goat cheese, not squeezing too tightly. Flatten out a large
single grape leaf or two smaller grape leaves on the cutting board. If
the leaves are too salty soak them in cold water first, however they do
help to flavor the chicken, but adjust your seasoning accordingly. Place
the chicken in the grape leaf almost like you would a baby in a clean
diaper and thoroughly wrap, leaving no exposed areas. Then take the
pancetta and wrap it around the chicken, starting at one end and working
towards the other, over-lapping the pieces to make a snug fit cocoon
like wrap. Put aside.
In a medium sized pot
saute until translucent the chopped onions with a touch of salt and one
bay leaf. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. When boiling, take
a whisk and slowly add the cup of polenta in a steady stream while
whisking gently but constantly. As all the polenta is added gently whisk
for one minute and then lower the heat to a low simmer. Switch to a
wooden spoon and stir frequently, cleaning the sides and bottom. Be
careful as splattering polenta leaves a nasty burn, it’s like molten
lava. Continue for twenty minutes or until the polenta is no longer
coarse and gritty but melts in your mouth. Cover and let rest.
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| Drop
the heat to low- medium and roll around the wrapped breasts
until all sides are golden brown approximately 6 minutes. |
In a large cast iron pan or griswald, heat
up 3 oz. of olive oil until lightly smoking. Add your 4 chicken breasts
carefully, do not over crowd the pan, you can do this in two stages.
Drop the heat to low- medium and roll around the wrapped breasts until
all sides are golden brown approximately 6 minutes. Repeat if necessary.
Place in a 350 degree oven and cook for 4-5 minutes or until done. Do
not overcook as the goat cheese will leak out. Meanwhile in a small
sauté pan, sauté your halved figs and chestnuts with a little finely
chopped shallot. Add the roasted chicken stock reduction and bring to a
simmer. Finish with a touch of butter for silkiness if desired. Remove
the chicken from the oven and let rest two to three minutes. Place
a
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| Try
this great food with red wine such as Pinot Noir of Chalone
Vineyard |
dollop of polenta in the middle of each
plate. Spoon the sauce generously around the polenta evenly distributing
the figs and chestnuts. Slice each chicken into six to eight rings and
lay across the polenta. I prefer a red wine like a Sangiovese or a Rhone
Pinot up to a Zinfandel while eating this dish, however rieslings and
viognier do well also.
